2025

The second decade the increase in yield suggests we learnt better management techniques to reduce the impact of the above. It also shows the harvest ripeness went up, as we began to prefer a wine style that displayed riper fruit characters. In real terms, this meant Moss Wood Chardonnay from the period showed a predominance of yellow-flesh stone fruits and marmalade. The third decade continued the theme, although towards the end of the period we started to pick at slightly lower ripeness to improve the freshness of the wine by retaining more of the greener notes, albeit only a small adjustment. Curious readers may have noted that our yields fell, especially during the middle years of the 2000’s, so it seems we must have forgotten some of our lessons.

Into our fourth decade, we have continued the trend of lower ripeness and fortunately, turned the yield decline around. It seems we are finally beginning to understand the Moss Wood Chardonnay vineyard and what style it produces best. It didn’t take long did it?

As an aside, those with an eye to wider issues may note that overall, our first decade appears to have been slightly cooler. The vines ripened smaller crops more slowly, although some of this change may be that in the decades since, ripening rates went up partly as a result of trellis improvements. Our weather station only began collecting data in 1998, so we can’t confirm the actual temperatures experienced during that decade.

In our view, the great vintages of Moss Wood Chardonnay released so far are: 1980, 1983, 1984, 1985, 1990, 1992, 1996, 1999, 2002, 2005, 2009 and 2010. We will admit that our view of the four oldest wines is influenced by the fact they were made during very exciting times. The 1980 was perhaps the most exciting of all, being the first barrel fermented wine Moss Wood had produced. Every step in the process was an adventure and the quality was unexpectedly good. The next three were just as interesting as we worked hard to understand good Chardonnay techniques and especially those used by the Burgundians. This meant we tried steps like extended lees contact and malolactic fermentation for the first time and were intrigued by the possibilities these offered. However, all things considered, these wines deserve their place on the list and especially the 1984 which is a personal favourite of Keith’s. Sadly it was such a tiny quantity that very few people had the chance to taste it.

What conclusions can we draw about the 2011 vintage? The yields and ripeness place it alongside some very fine years – 1996, 2005 and 2010. In our view, it has brighter fruit aromas than the ‘05 but still has that vintage’s complexity. It is generally more concentrated than the ‘96 and has better balanced tannins. Finally, it was picked very slightly less ripe than the 2010 and so while it is very similar, a case can be made that the 2011 is more lifted with its primary fruit aromas.

On balance, it ranks with the best Chardonnay wines we have made.